THE ANIMALS may not all be soft and cuddly, but Borneo is a bunny-huggers' paradise. The lovable orangutan, the big-nosed, potbellied proboscis monkey and the tiny mouse deer are just a few of the state's 40 mammals. And the more hugging the better - for Sabah's once-remote rainforests are sadly disappearing in the relentless wake of loggers and agriculture, putting many of its creatures under severe threat. The world's biggest flower, the Rafflesia, continues to bloom, elusively, at the Tambunan Rafflesia Centre, an hour's drive from Kota Kinabalu. The once-feared headhunters have changed their ways and their longhouses are vanishing, but Sabah remains a rainforests and diving cocktail, with a little pool-side pampering before you undertake the ultimate thrill: climbing mist-enshrouded Mount Kinabalu.Our Sabah guide kicks off in the capital city, Kota Kinabalu, or KK, from where you can take a short flight to a more far-flung destination, stay put in one of the Kota Kinabalu luxury resorts for some rest and relaxation, or set off over land for the thrill of your choice. Taxis are often not run by meter - you'll pay about RM15 from the airport to Kota Kinabalu town and watch out for the after-midnight surcharge that could double your fare
After a 10-minute drive from the city centre, you'll find a cheery welcome at Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort and Spa, set in 25 acres of landscaped gardens by the sea. Its large reception area with cooling overhead fans augur well for the rest of your stay. It's a big resort - there are 492 rooms, eight restaurants and enough activities to keep boredom at bay - from plant tours around the resort and scuba diving, to Malaysian cuisine cooking demonstrations and traditional rice wine tasting. There's a kids club too. All rooms have private balconies and come with Broadband Internet access, large safes, multi-plug data ports, tea-and-coffee-making and ironing facilities. A speedboat day-trip to one of the nearby offshore islands for swimming or snorkelling along the coral reefs is well worth it.